How to Make Your Summer Equinox Skirt
But first a few words - The Equinox skirt is drafted to fit your hip measurement, just skimming the body. It’s not so much stretched to fit, but rather to just lay at your hip measurement, and stretch with movement. Pick your size based on your widest hip measurement; it can be lengthened or shortened as preferred but it is drafted to sit at 20 3/8ths” from your natural waist.
For a woman of a certain age, the best length for most dresses and skirts, especially hot weather knit skirts, is just at the top of one’s knee cap or in-between the kneecap and bottom of the rectus femoris (thigh) muscle. This is a great length for near any leg length or shape, allows for ease of tourist walking, and does cover the tuchas and thighs while cafe sitting but still show some leg.
The Equinox skirt is a wonderful stash buster too! Using just under 5/8ths of a yard of 60”W fabric, it's perfect for those pieces of knit in your stash too big to toss but too small for a top. The beauty of this elastic waist skirt is in the application. Instead of the usual threading the elastic through a casing, the elastic is evenly stretched along the waist SA then flipped over and stay stitched resulting in a smooth waist. Small front and back darts further reduce some of the waist gathering, giving a smoother look all around. Once you get the hang of this elastic waist application, you’ll never go back. It’s quick, easy and very comfy.
Let's get started . . .
Make darts in front and back of skirt.
TOP TIP: Make One Thread Darts. One Thread Darts are an excellent choice for darts of this nature, resulting a smooth dart point. To do so, remove the needle thread from the needle eye, and bring the bobbin thread up and through the needle from behind the needle eye. Tie bobbin thread to upper thread in a square knot. At the thread spool, wind thread around spool to bring the tied thread up through the machine until the knot is wound once around the spool. Lower needle to the dart point next to fabric, and lower presser foot. Stitch dart from dart point to seam allowance. Repeat for each dart.
Press front darts towards side seams, back darts towards center back.
Sew side seams.
Measure your waist and cut 1” elastic one inch less measurement. Abut ends of elastic and zig zag stitch abutted ends together using several passes. On elastic, mark at 4 even points - CF, CB and both side seams. On WS of skirt, align markings with same on skirt along the waist edge seam allowance, stretching elastic between each point.
TOP TIP: Use Wash Away Wonder Tape instead of a pins. Before stretching elastic to fit, place tape along the WS of waistline SA, remove tape backing, then pull elastic to match points, pressing elastic down firmly onto the tape.
Stretching elastic between quarter points, serge or zig zag stitch elastic to skirt.
On a regular machine with RS facing up, and using a long stretch stitch or zig zag stitch, sew elastic again at 7/8ths from waistline SA, again stretching elastic smooth between match points. Roll elastic to inside and at darts and side seams, stitch-in-the-ditch elastic down through all layers.
Hem Equinox skirt with 1" hem with a cover stitch, double needle or zig zag stitch. If using SewkeysE 1” double side fusible tape, apply tape to hem line, turn and press smooth - it irons on with no steam, let cool a tad, peel off paper, turn hem and steam down. Stabilizing the hem with 1” SewKeysE double-faced fusible sheer-weight tape makes the hem always smooth and never bunchy after washing. SewkeysE tape aids in turning the hem evenly and you can run your hem through your machine without pins. Yay!
WHAT LIES BENEATH: What goes underneath your knits is just as important as the final results of your garment. For a smooth clean line under your Equinox skirt, the Bali Skimp Skamp full nylon panty is an excellent choice. Your knit fabrics will glide around your body without clinging to your knickers. With no VPLs, the Skimp Skamp is cool in the heat and fast drying during travel.
Now pull on your Equinox skirt and go out for some pastries.
Editor's Note: Compensation is not received for any endorsed product. Brand names and links provided under the Freedom of Sewing Information Act.