How to Make Your Summer Solstice Bratop
Let’s make a Summer Ensemble of a Solstice Bratop and Equinox pull-on skirt for carefree days of Summer.
Summer Solstice Bratop
After cutting your Solstice top, stabilize both front and back necklines along the base of each neckline SA, including the pivot point. A 1/2” strip of knit stabilizer such as Pellon’s Bi-Rite stretch fusible or SewkeysE’s 3/8th” single-sided knit fusible are both good choices. Don’t have either on hand? Cut a bias strip of regular fusible. Fuse stabilizer along neckline from pivot point to pivot point, extending it 1/8" past the pivot point mark. Stitch shoulder seams on both Solstice top and bra pieces. Press top shoulder SAs towards the back and bra SAs towards the front, butterflying the SAs. Stitch top and bra together RS to RS at neckline, pivoting a pivot points. Turn right-side out, clip corners to but not though to pivot point marking, press and using a regular straight stitch understitch entire neckline. Armscyes are stitched using the All-in-One method. To do so, lay your top flat, RS up and fully open. Try this - Back to your left, Front to your Right.
Take the side closest to your belly and start rolling up the top in its entirety away from you and towards the other side seam until you reach the opposite armscye. Reach under the roll and pull only the bra armsyce out from underneath the top then bring it over the top towards RS of the corresponding armscye of the top, encasing your project in the shoulder straps. Pin and sew entire armscye from side seam to seam while avoiding sewing your project encased in the should strap. Press and pull the top all the way through the shoulder seam until it pops RS out. Sometimes the handle of a wooden spoon helps. Press armscye. Repeat for other armscye. Open up entire side seams of top and bra and sew side seams from bra to hemline on each side seam. Understitch armscyes using a regular straight stitch from mid-strap front to mid-strap back.
Gather bra top bust front between markings to a 2” measurement. Stay stitch gathers. Measure your undercuts and subtract 6”. Cut elastic to this measurement. Abut elastic ends and stitch securely. to creat a loop.
TOP TIP: Use square or scrap of fabric to help hold the elastic ends abutted while sewing together. Trim excess. Quarter mark elastic at CB, CF and SS. On inside of bra top - the side that lays against your skin, overlay elastic 1/4” on to the selvage of thebra top, stretching between quarter marks. Wash Aawy Wonder Tape works wonders on this sep, eliminating the need for pins.
TOP TIP: Use your machine as an extra hand to hold both your top and elastic while stretching between quatermarks..
Stitch elastic - while stretching - to bra top. A zip zag stitch, your machines’s stretch stitch or a coverstitch can be used. The Tutorialist prefers a coverstitch on this step.
Hem top with a 1” hem.
TOP TIP: Do stabilize your hem with SewkeysE’s 1” double-sided extra fine clear fusible tpe. It makes for a world of difference in the look and life of your knit hem. Once fused, pins aren’t necessary so your garment’s hem will run through your machine smoothly and evenly. It also helps reduce or eliminate the dreaded tunneling when using either a double needle or overstitch. SewKesE’s tapes are wash and wear and take licking, I highly endorse it.
Now go out an enjoy the sun and stop some traffic.