How to Make Your Sizzler Sundress

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       Show those curves

                     The front drape helps hide the sins of cake.

How to Make Your Sizzler Sundress

The Sizzler Sundress is a very snug, body conscience fit. Designed for ITY knits or similar knits with 25% stretch.    

Notions and Yardage:  2 1/2 yrds. 60”W, ¼” clear elastic or similar, 3/8” knit stay tape or similar (bias strips of knit fusible work well), water-soluble basting thread, 1 can spray fabric stiffener such as Sullivan’s, Best Press or heavy starch. 

All seams allowances are 3/8” unless otherwise marked.  If using a zig-zag machine, set stich at 1.5 zig zag width and 2.5 length.  You may use but do not need a serger. 

Sewing Instructions

  1. Lay out and cut all pieces.  The front drape is a single piece, cut once.  Transfer all markings. 
  2. Spray fabric stiffener along fashion fabric and lining armscyes, necklines, darts and gather line of front drape piece.  Let dry.  Repeat if necessary. 
  3. Press all pieces with a dry iron if needed.  Apply knit stay tape along bodice neckline and armscyes. 
  4. Make darts in bodice lining, press up. 
  5. Fold bodice pleats at ●  marking; press so pleats face up on the RS and baste inside the SA.  
    TOP TIP:  Use water-soluble basting thread such as Wash Away Basting thread.
  6. Sew CB seams of bodice back and lining back, stopping at large dot ● at CB.  The “top” of the seam should be open 3/8.” 
  7. Sew shoulder seams of bodice and bodice lining. 
  8. Sew neckline seam from CB ● to Front neckline.  Place bodice and lining RS to RS, butterflying shoulder seams. 
  9. Sew ¼” elastic to neckline SA. Beginning at the CB ● and ending at the front neckline, sew elastic to neckline seam (do not stretch) by placing elastic on SA.  Do not stretch the seam or elastic while sewing.  Repeat.  Understich entire neckline lining.  
  10. Lay bodice out flat, WS facing out.  Match one lining armscye to bodice armscye and stitch from side seam to side seam.  Sew elastic in SA, same as neckline method, no stretch.  Pull entire bodice through shoulder strap.  Repeat for other side. 
  11. Open up Bodice and sew side seams, RS to RS, catching armscye elastic ends within SA.  Make a nick in the SA where underarm/side seams meet – to but not through stitching - and place bodice side seams WS to WS, butterflying the seam allowances.  Baste bodice and lining together with wash away basting thread at under-bust seam.  Press, no steam. 
  12. Overlap Front bodice 4” (or more if your rib cage if needed), right over left, matching notches.  Baste down inside SA.    
  13. Check bodice fit.  Make any adjustments, including overlap if needed. Have a cookie. 
  14. Make darts on skirt back(s).  If lining skirt back, butterfly darts after sewing by pressing fashion fabric darts towards side seams and lining darts towards CB.  Sew CB seam(s). Set aside. 
    • If lining, hem lining with ½” hem.  Hem lining is ½” shorter than fashion fabric skirt. 
  15. Hem left side of front drape with ½” hem from hemline to gather mark.  Snip at lower gather mark as needed to roll hem.  Hem front drape hem with ½” hem.  The front drape is ½” shorter than the underskirt.   
  16. Gather left side of front drape to 9½” between markings.  Stay stitch or use stay tape just inside SA on gathers. 
  17. Sew side seams of skirt back and skirt back lining (if using*) to front underskirt and front drape in the following stack order:    
    • lay Back RS up 
    • then Drape WS up 
    • then Front WS up 
    • then Back lining WS up 
  18. Turn to outside.  If you've used lining, your darts and side seams will be concealed.  
  19. Hem underskirt with ½” hem. 
  20. Sew bodice to skirt with a ½" seam.   
  21. Apply elastic to under-bust seam. Measure your under-bust and mark ¼" elastic 4"-6"  less. Make 4 even marks on elastic - CF, CB, and SSs; match same to same on dress,  stretching evenly between markings and sew elastic to under-bust seam SA.   

Try on dress.  Go out for cocktails.  Turn some heads.   

Enjoy!

Coco 

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